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Bigos

Wed, 7 December, 2022

⯆ JUMP TO RECIPE
Polish hunters’ stew, bigos, is the best winter warmer in food shape. Smoky flavour, a variety of meats, it is braised for days in mild sauerkraut with dried mushrooms and prunes.

bigos cuisinefiend.com

Bigos means ‘mess’

It smells out the house something awful while it’s cooking: sauerkraut, after all, is cabbage albeit fermented.

The list of ingredients makes you go: ‘Wait, what? and what? and what?’ rather than ‘yum, yum, yum’.

The name of the dish itself is a byword for a godawful mess in Polish.

And yet, it is the absolute best of Polish cuisine, in my humble opinion.

bigos polish hunters stew cuisinefiend.com

Know your cabbage

I agree: if cabbage, and especially sauerkraut, its fermented incarnation is not your thing, it won’t hit any spots with you.

Unless you meticulously pick out all the meat bits and eat those only. But I’ll think less of you if you do that, you know.

Because the dish is a mix of delightfully varied chunks of meats and sausage against the background of sauerkraut cooked so long it’s turned buttery smooth.

It’s also called hunters’ stew and it’s at its legendary best on the third day of cooking and reheating.

polish bigos cuisinefiend.com

Fermenting snobs

The reason why people in the UK sniff at sauerkraut is nothing to do with two World Wars and one World Cup.

It might as well be called kapusta kiszona (which is what it’s called in Polish) and it still couldn’t hold a candle to kimchi. It’s because the British, especially those of the wellness, plant-based, gut-healthfulness seeking tribe are hideous snobs.

Kimchi good, sauerkraut bad? One uses Napa cabbage totally alien in this country and gochugaru seasoning which has to be imported half the world across. The other is made from cabbage that grows in allotments seasoned with salt and nothing else.

It's also stupidly easy to make at home, one small jar at a time. Still sniffy? Pure snobbery, I said.

sauerkraut cuisinefiend.com

Sauerkraut is one of the best foods for the gut, practically being a natural probiotic, and it is immensely rich in vitamin C. I can’t recommend it enough.

Cooked, it is well known in France as choucroute. They cook it lightly and season it likewise, serving choucroute as a side dish.

In Poland admittedly we take a ballistic approach to it when cooking sauerkraut.

bigos sauerkraut and meat stew cuisinefiend.com

How to prepare sauerkraut for bigos?

Sauerkraut can be very acidic so the first thing is to taste it.

If it’s just nicely sharp and tart, it will be enough to squeeze out the liquid as much as you can. If it’s face-puckeringly acidic, rinse it with plenty cold water and squeeze out.

Then roughly chopped, covered with fresh water in a very large saucepan or a stockpot, it gets half an hour head start on cooking, with a few aromatics.

You can also add some fresh, shredded cabbage to the pot if, after squeezing and rinsing, the sauerkraut still tastes too sour.

In the meantime you can turn your attention to the meats.

cooking sauerkraut cuisinefiend.com

Meats for bigos

Hunters’ stew would suggest there will be game in the pot. That is a delightful option but traditionally, old Polish recipes advise to use a selection of pork, beef or poultry, with bacon and sausage.

Originally it was the dish that used up various leftover roasts – but it shows how far back the recipe goes, considering the unrealistic circumstances of having VARIOUS roast meats left over in sufficient quantities. A medieval feast comes to mind!

In modern times bigos is usually made from scratch so I suggest a combo of pork belly or shoulder, fatty and reasonably tender, plus chicken or duck legs, all boneless and chunkily diced. The meat can be from cheaper cuts but decent, and with lots of nice fat but no poultry skin.

browning meat cuisinefiend.com

Bacon should best be also chunkily diced but that is hard to encounter in the UK. Either way it must be smoked as the smoked flavour is the characteristics of good bigos.

Likewise the sausage – Polish smoked kielbasa is ideal if you can get it. As an alternative I suggest smoked cooking chorizo or French Montbéliard.

sausage and bacon cuisinefiend.com

All into the pot

While the sauerkraut is cooking, the meats need to be browned in the frying pan with the onions before they go into the pot.

And the last but by no meant least bunch of ingredients: dried wild mushrooms, prunes and a small, grated apple.

Dried mushrooms traditionally should be self-foraged and dried but if you buy a tub of dried porcini from Sainsbury’s, you’ll be excused. They are an essential addition though – the earthy, woody flavour and bags of umami that bigos can’t be without.

dried mushrooms cuisinefiend.com

Prunes and apple add sweetness; in Poland you’d use powidla, a mighty flavoursome Polish plum preserve, but Agen prunes in my view will do the job just as well, especially if matched with a couple of tablespoons of redcurrant jelly.

And that’s really the work done, once all the ingredients are in the pot.

It will now need to cook forever – or at least a couple of hours, then same again on the following day.

It’s ready when the sauerkraut has nearly turned into a homogenous mass with meat chunks and mushrooms interspersed. There should be no juice spilling over the plate when ladled up, but just a little thickish meat gravy.

It gets better with each reheating, even better when warmed up from frozen. It’s best with thickly cut, plain fresh bread but it won’t mind the company of a baked potato either.

cooking bigos cuisinefiend.com

More Polish recipes

Cabbage rolls stuffed with a pork mince and rice filling, baked in simple tomato sauce – that’s Polish golabki, the ultimate comfort dish. Also, the best use of the outer cabbage leaves.

Pojarski is a super tasty cutlet made of steak partly chopped and partly minced. My veal pojarski is an authentic dish unlike the cheap breaded chicken patties pretending to be the East European classic.

Potato babka is an unusual and tasty alternative to a boring nut roast, the vegetarian Christmas or Thanksgiving option. It’s a lavishly seasoned grated potato mass studded with peppers and mushrooms baked till crisp in a loaf tin.

bigos hunters stew cuisinefiend.com

More cabbage recipes

This is the best cabbage dish: crispy and caramelised, first fried and then baked green cabbage Swedish style, shredded and cooked to perfection.

Cabbage lasagne, a vegetarian dish of pasta layered with a filling of lightly cooked cabbage with tomatoes. Surprisingly flavourful and delicious!

Cabbage with bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms is a delicious main dish, served with plain pasta or potatoes. It can also be a hearty side dish to go with fish or chicken.

polish cabbage and meat stew cuisinefiend.com



bigos

Servings: 6-8Time: 2 hours plus further cooking on the following days

INGREDIENTS

  • 2 x 650g (3 pounds) jars of Bavarian style sauerkraut (without vinegar)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tbsp juniper berries
  • 1 tbsp allspice berries
  • 25g (½ cup) dried porcini mushrooms
  • 400g (1 pound) pork (lean belly or shoulder)
  • 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • 150g (5 oz.) smoked streaky bacon
  • 200g (7 oz.) smoked sausage
  • 1 large onion
  • 1 tbsp oil
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 4-5 prunes
  • 1 small apple
  • ½ bunch fresh thyme sprigs
  • 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly


METHOD

1. Drain the sauerkraut into a colander. Grab handfuls and squeeze out some of the moisture, just so it doesn’t drip water. Chop it roughly.

2. Place the sauerkraut in a very large saucepan or pot. Cover with cold water, add the juniper berries and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Cook for 30 minutes.

3. In the meantime, soak the dried mushrooms in 500ml/2 cups boiling water.

4. Cut the pork into cubes about 3.5cm/1 inch. Cut the chicken thighs into similar sized pieces. Roughly chop the bacon and sausage. Peel and dice the onion.

5. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the onion. Cook stirring until it starts to soften. Turn up the heat and add the pork and chicken, season with salt and cook until nicely browned. Scrape all into the sauerkraut.

6. In the same pan, briefly cook the bacon and the sausage. Add to the pot with any juices and fat. Stir well and keep on a simmer.

7. Drain the mushrooms, reserve the soaking liquid. Chop the mushrooms roughly, chop the prunes and add both to the stew. Pour in the mushroom liquor.

8. Coarsely grate the apple with the skin and add to the pot with the thyme and the redcurrant jelly. Give the stew a very good stir and bring to a simmer. Cook covered for 2 hours. Keep somewhere cool but not necessarily in the fridge overnight.

9. The next day bring it to a simmer again and cook for 1 hour. If there is a lot of liquid – there should be some sauce but not swimming in it – cook it uncovered over higher heat.

10. Taste for salt and adjust; there should be a background sweetness to it so if it’s sharp, add another spoonful of redcurrant jelly.

11. Bigos is the best reheated on the third day and beyond. It also freezes well in Ziploc bags or plastic tubs.

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Hello! I'm Anna Gaze, the Cuisine Fiend. Welcome to my recipe collection.

I have lots of recipes for you to choose from: healthy or indulgent, easy or more challenging, quick or involved - but always tasty.


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