lemon sole

Probably the poorest cousin to all the flat fish, lemon sole shares an unpopular postcode with plaice (although the latter deserves a more up-and-coming neighbourhood, surely).

Its flesh cannot match the rich, flaky turbot or the firm, flavoursome Dover. Truth be told – it turns mushy very quickly. It will be good for fishcakes – although filleting best left to the fishmonger – or goujons. No good for a pie, forget about the fish and chips treatment.

I’ve attempted to bring the lemon sole a bit upmarket here, roasting it whole on a bed of lemons, lavishly basted with butter. This approach works well for its more affluent relatives as well as the likes of sea bass and sea bream. Surprise, surprise – it’s really tasty and, unless you keep that poor thing in the oven for inordinately long, not mushy. What do you know? I guess there are three secrets to it, like the French cuisine: butter, butter and more butter.