Breton butter biscuits

What is Brittany famous for?

Brittany certainly has a few things going for it. Oysters. Mont Saint Michel. That funny half-ruined lighthouse in the middle of the sea which is one of the most photographed landmarks in Europe. The tide. Breton cake. And butter.

What's special about Breton butter?

It’s supposed to be the best in the world. Beurre de baratte is hand churned in a traditional fashion, made from slightly more sour cream than the regular stuff, delivered by Brittany milk cows who clearly are happy animals.

I never used to think there was much difference between one brand of butter and another until a friend passionate about organic, unprocessed and natural foods pointed me in the direction of unpasteurised butter – made no other place than in Brittany. It was a revelation.

Churn, baby, churn

A digression - bar going to Brittany and paying a small fortune to make sure you get the genuine artisan article, there is an easier way to get yourself a pat of beurre de baratte. You can make it yourself, and I refer you to a wonderful resource for that which is contained, surprise, surprise, on this here page. You'll see what this hand-churning is all about.

The salt in your butter

Butter de baratte, if salted, has actual, visible crystals of salt which crunch and melt on your tongue. I swear you can eat a pat of this stuff on its own, it’s so gorgeous. I don’t suppose the butter I buy after all from a supermarket is 100% handmade (apparently the genuine artisan stuff costs more than foie gras) but it says de baratte on the package and I trust the French when it comes to food.

Breton biscuits with Breton butter

Almost a shame to bake with it – but since I propose that the biscuits below are among the best in the world, it’s only fitting that they should be made with the best butter in the world. Of course if you can't get hold of baratte or can't imagine getting churning yourself, use ordinary salted butter and they'll still be lovely.