Simple, classic ratatouille is possibly the world's most versatile side dish: it goes with anything. I usually am perfectly happy to have it on its own with crusty bread.
Ratatouille is probably an ancient dish though the first known recipe appeared in the 19th century in its indigenous location of Nice, Provence.
But that’s because nobody ever needed a recipe for it: a casserole of seasonal vegetables, evenly chopped and frugally seasoned, cooked together in a pot. It’s peasant food as well as vegetarian and vegan – though the French will invariably serve it with meat or fish.
Bof!
As it happens ratatouille is quite frowned upon in its homeland. It's a 'vulgar' dish, as I learned from an entry on Tripadvisor commenting on an otherwise very lovely Provençal restaurant. The reviewers were French - which is fine since it's best to trust the natives on food - and they derided what the chef presented as légumes confit. They dismissed it as ‘une vulgaire ratatouille’ Bof bof.
Perhaps they’d be more impressed with an elaborate version of ratatouille that you can encounter, like the one featuring vegetable slices ornately fanned around, a dish called confit byaldi. But I like it simple, like the peasant dish it is.
Variations and how to serve
Mushrooms are optional but not uncommon. Because it’s all about using ripe, cheap vegetables, you can make your own combination.
Other variations might include adding meat: French Toulouse sausages will be excellent, or lean smoked bacon.
I like my chunky chicken ratatouille, and it will turn into a delicious, French version of shakshuka if you poach eggs in it.
Spoon it cold onto a thick bruschetta and grate cheese over it before sliding it under the grill. But frankly, just a crusty baguette alongside a bowlful of ratatouille is nothing to bof at.
What goes into a ratatouille?
You could possibly dump all the chopped vegetables together into a pan and cook, but I think it would turn out a mushy soup – and no, I’ve not tried that.
It makes sense to sear/brown each vegetable separately as their cooking times differ. I think it’s best to do it in a large frying pan, decanting them into a large saucepan or casserole dish, when done. Each should take barely a couple of minutes with a splash of olive oil, just to brown them a little. The cooking proper will occur later.
Peppers should go first, followed by mushrooms if you’re using them. Then aubergines which may require an extra splash of oil – they drink it like mad. Courgette next, and as the final batch: onions and tomatoes.
What type of tomato is best for ratatouille?
Of course they would not dream of putting cherry tomatoes into a ratatouille in Provence, but they will have plenty of heritage tomatoes, fleshy and ripe. And you should do the same, if that’s what’s available.
But in Northern Europe out of season tomatoes are watery and miserable which will likely turn your ratatouille into soup. In which case use cherry tomatoes, pierce each with a sharp knife and squeeze out some of the watery seeds.
Cooking and seasoning
Once all the veg are in the pot, add the seasoning, herbes de Provence or a bouquet garni of rosemary and thyme, tied with a piece of string for easy extraction. A teaspoon of salt and a half of black pepper is all that classically goes for seasoning, though I like to add some sweet paprika and a squirt of ketchup, unorthodoxly, at the end.
Cooking will take about forty minutes of a steady simmer, and make sure not to let it cook too vigorously or it will turn mushy and watery. Add a crushed clove of garlic or two at the end so its flavour stays fresh.
And as I said, It’s the tastiest warm rather than piping and equally good the next day, at room temperature.
More French vegetable recipes
Recipe for potatoes boulangeres, or baker’s potatoes, sliced thinly and baked in the oven. A simple side of potatoes boulangeres is traditional with beef bourgignon.
Tian de courgettes, courgette and spinach gratin, courgette bake - however you call it, it's a great vegetarian recipe. Zucchini and spinach are a well matched couple, appearing also in risottos, pasta and frittatas.
Celeriac, carrot and apple remoulade with crème fraiche and wholegrain mustard dressing is a seasonal winter salad and a great side dish for seafood.
More Mediterranean vegetable recipes
Chunky vegetable lasagne, with peppers, courgettes and tomatoes. Coated with creamy white sauce with mozzarella layer, it will cook to a bubbling, gorgeous perfection.
Halloumi and vegetable skewers, vegetarian kebabs of cheese, mushrooms, peppers and onion drizzled with tangy marinade, as fantastic cooked on a barbecue as from the oven.
Roasted Mediterranean vegetable mix with a topping of crumbled feta and toasted pine nuts. It’s vegetarian, it’s wholesome and it’s healthy.