Apricot and fig stuffing

The stuffing of Christmas

If I could have my dream Christmas dinner, there would be no turkey. No goose, though I love goose, no duck or even beef. No - I would just make five or six kinds of stuffing.

All vegetarian or all meat; flavoured with sage and onion or with oriental spices; pork stuffing, chestnut stuffing, mushroom stuffing - who cares about the roast?

Fruit and meat - ideal pairing

This recipe is a lovely alternative to chestnut stuffing if you fancy something a little different. I like to cal this medieval style flavour: pork with spices and fruit which is a combination going back in history.

When not many vegetables were considered fit to serve at banquets and feasts, it was fruit - and dried fruit in winter - that broke through the meats and starches. It was the other way round too: lest we forget mince pies originally had meat in the filling.

I like pairing meat with fruit, dried fruit especially, and this stuffing will complement poultry extremely well. If you set out on a challenge of de-boned bird roast this Christmas, it’s a wonderful filling to spread inside the meat, roll and tie it up; then roast and serve for the ‘wow’ factor.

Bake the stuffing separately

But I like best stuffing baked separately in a little tin, quietly sat in the corner of the oven or in a warm place, waiting for the big boy to be ready. You can serve it on a board together with all the other trimmings and it tastes great with sweet cranberry sauce or redcurrant jelly.

There’s never any point in stuffing a whole bird roasting on the bone: all you achieve is skewered cooking times and the hassle of scooping the stuffing out of nook, crannies, necks and cavities.

The amounts below are modest and make a small loaf to serve about four people. Double the amounts if you have more diners - or if you find how gorgeous it tastes.