October for me is the time of apples. We kiss berries goodbye, obviously ignoring the ones that are trying to pretend they are seasonal and local, but really come from the darkest Peru. We embrace grapes and a few leftover sweet nectarines, then turn our attention to apples.
Because they don’t only keep doctors away (doctors are kept away by strikes anyway): apples are the perfect snack, the perfect fruit, the perfect baking ingredient.
And they are ripe just now in orchards throughout Kent and Sussex, all the gorgeous Coxes, Russets, Galas and Pippins, with Bramleys for pies and crumbles. You could not have a more traditionally British produce than apples!
Which means there will be almost only British apples available to buy at the supermarkets right now – won’t there?
Surprise, surprise. In my local Marks & Spencer, of all places, with them protesting they sell almost exclusively British produce, I find to my dismay mainly South African and New Zealand Jazz, Pink Lady and Braeburns. Importing apples in September from the southern hemisphere! How does that play with their ‘Farm to Foodhall’ motto? From a farm in darkest Peru to Home Counties, I’m guessing! They really should be ashamed.
Once I’ve constrained my indignation, I’ll visit a farm shop instead and turn towards recipes – a large slice of apple pie with clotted cream should eventually calm my nerves.
There is a wide range of apple cakes, from all over the world, for you to choose from in the season. Apart from (American as they come) the pie, there is a rustic French apple galette, German kuchen and Norwegian eplekake. There is Jewish honey and apple cake, not just for Rosh Hashanah. There is old fashioned apple cake with brown sugar frosting, and there is brown apple cake: the cake for people who don’t know how to bake.
If you have a glut of apples, make delicious marmalade. If you don’t have a sweet tooth, bake apple and Cheddar scones. And if you prefer bread, there is an apple and cider loaf to be baked.
But apples are not only useful in baking: grate at least one for celeriac remoulade, add it to zingy carrots or to crunchy cabbage. Make a topping for potato latkes or for goose (or duck) breast fillet. And if you have any leftover roast meat, rissoles with apple and cheese will be your next dinner. Happy apple picking!