Meringues are pure magic: sugar suspended in whipped egg whites, two ingredients, the simplest sweet confection in the world. It was probably invented in the Swiss town of Meiringen, hence the name.
I always have several small bags in the freezer with egg whites decanted and frozen, because so often you need only the yolk and it’s a terrible waste to chuck the white down the drain. And they come in handy whenever a (relatively) light, (reasonably) simple dessert is required.
Frozen egg whites are as good as fresh, if not better. The strict requisite of immaculately clean bowl and utensils should be observed within reason, likewise the ‘no speck of yolk in the white’. And there is such a wide range of sweets, cakes and biscuits you can produce with the whites and the sugar!
No, it’s not only sugar and egg whites. You can make meringues in all kinds of flavours not only colours, like a few years ago on Instagram. These are mini meringue kisses with lemon, raspberry, chocolate and pistachio flavours. Also, the quickest meringue making method, with burnt sugar.
Nougat is like the quintessence of meringue: chewy and sticky instead of light and airy. These are not quite proper nougats but the addition of dates makes them chewier, and walnut chunks add nougaty character. The most exquisite sweets for all meringue, nougat, marshmallow and turrón lovers.
Date and walnut nougat meringues
RECIPE
So delicious, it’s unreal. Meringue base folds and rolls beautifully around the whipped mascarpone cream and raspberry filling, and it’s exactly like a folded pavlova. The perfect dessert recipe by Ottolenghi, decorated with rose petals and pistachios.
Raspberry meringue roulade
RECIPE
Mini meringue kisses, dainty and cute, are filled with the nicest white and dark chocolate ganache. Swirl a drop of food colouring through the meringue mix or leave them pristine and white. And the chocolate ganache is the easiest thing to make.
Full sized pavlova is messy and tricky to bake just right. No such issue with mini pavlovas: you can bake a huge batch of meringue nests because they keep well in airtight tubs, and fill a few at a time when fancy takes you or friends come round. So much nicer than shop bought nests.
Dacquoise is a meringue based confection, made by adding almond flour to meringue. It makes it thus perfect cake building material: layers of dacquoise can be filled or frosted with cream, chocolate or buttercream. This recipe is a riff on black forest gateau: fresh cream and homemade candied cherries.
Dacquoise batter can also be baked into biscuits, the loveliest, crunchy-chewy cookies very much like classic macarons. These are orange flavoured and absolutely moreish.
Orange dacquoise biscuits
RECIPE
Croquants are similar to dacquoise, except a little more resembling American cookies. They are crunchy, which is what ‘croquant’ means in French, but if you bake them a little less, they will be still slightly chewy, like cookies.
Like a giant, almond buttercream-filled macaron, Oscar II cake is also known as Swedish almond tart. It's easy to make and absolutely delightful, it’s named after king Oscar II of Sweden and Norway. Yes, they sell it in IKEA and no, the homemade version is not any less delicious.
The next stage in meringue pâtisserie proficiency is French macarons. Meringue is made Italian style, by adding hot sugar syrup in a slow stream to egg whites first beaten to stiff peaks. To that almond paste is added and the mix should be piped onto trays, rested so the famed ‘feet’ develop and finally baked.
From the French Pays Basque come a more rustic, none the less delightful version of macarons. Mouchous are easier to make than the Parisian variety and presented individually rather than in pairs filled with cream.
This recipe shares the egg white content and beating to stiff peaks with the other meringue recipes, but unlike those, flour is added to make the lightest sponge batter. Just the ticket for ladyfingers or savoyardi biscuits.
And the final meringue-related recipe is angel food cake, the lightest sponge whipped to a cloud, with only a whisper of flour and no baking powder. It bakes in a special tin with a chimney, or an ungreased ring tin. Best served with cream and berries!
Bonus recipe, for your next Halloween party! Meringues shaped into little ghosts and skeleton bones.