very chocolate ice cream
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In south western France they have very specific principles pertaining to food. If you’re a vegetarian, piss off to Provence. Vegans can only expect a shrug instead of dinner. Foie gras is just a pâté, duck fat is better than olive oil and an aperitif is often flavoured with truffles, just because it can be.
And they are very definite about ice cream: fruity flavours are sorbets, non-fruity – dairy.
So there’s none of the strawberry-cream or raspberry-ripple nonsense. Vegans can survive there thus – fed with sorbets.
The Weather Man suffered several acute disappointments having got himself a boule of appetising looking fraise, only to discover its watery character; he loves pink and red coloured ice but his must end in -cream. Literally. He had to switch onto something else and chocolate became his parfum du jour (ou deux semaines). Hence, the challenge for me to create as chocolatey chocolate ice cream as those chez Glacier Lambert – and they were very chocolatey indeed.
And, you see, I did.
very chocolate ice creamServings: about 2 pints of ice creamTime: about 30 minutes plus chilling and freezing
- 180g (¾ cup) whole milk
- 50g (3 tbsp.) cocoa powder
- 200g (7oz.) good quality cooking milk chocolate
- 420g (1 1/3 cup) double cream
Break the chocolate into small pieces and place it in a bowl. In a small saucepan stir together about half of the milk and the cocoa. Bring to the boil, stirring. Pour it over the chocolate pieces, leave for a minute, then whisk until smooth.
Pour the remaining milk and the cream into the pan – no need to wash it – and bring it slowly to 90C. If you don’t have a thermometer, take it off the heat just before it boils.
Stir the chocolate into the milk-cream base and strain into a jug. Cool it down by immersing the jug in a bowl of iced water for an hour.
Churn in the ice cream maker according to the appliance instructions. If the machine is struggling, take out the paddle and break the ice cream with a hand mixer with dough hooks or blender attachment.
Scrape the ice cream into a tub and freeze for at least four hours before serving. Remove from the freezer 10 minutes before scooping.