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pissaladière

Updated: Tue, 23 August, 2022

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The story of pissaladière is an interesting one, albeit falling back on the eternal principle of eating what’s at hand, local and seasonal.

pissaladiere cuisinefiend.com

Salty fish

It begins with ordinary salty fish: ‘peis salat’ in Niçard dialect. Salted fish, anchovies and sardines in this instance, are made into a creamy paste by an ancient method of pressing freshly caught tiny young fish, scales, guts and all; with tonnes of herbs and spices, with wooden weights in barrels or receptacles.

The gunk is drained daily and eventually a probably unappetising, non-fragrant grey-pink paste called pissalat is produced.

It must be directly related to ancient Roman garum, to oyster sauce and to fish sauce – each unbelievably potent encapsulation of umami: fishy, salty, herby and divine.

pissaladiere nicoise cuisinefiend.com

Borrow pizza from Giuseppe

Then there is pizza. Just around the corner from Monaco, Ligurian pissadella is a pizza with onions and salted fish paste (plus a bit of tomato, obligatory since it is an Italian concoction) whose origins sit back in the sixteenth century Genoa.

The Niçardians have dropped the tomato, resignedly replaced pissalat with whole anchovies since the legal restrictions on baby anchovy fishing and focused on the onions, cooking them into liquid perfection.

salty fish on pizza cuisinefiend.com

Nice olives from Nice

And finally, the olives: tiny brown olives niçoises, of the variety Cailletier, they are simply the best olives in the world.

Even an olive hater would probably deem them all right. Plump though tiny, sweet even without a balsamic maceration, their size doesn’t make you go ‘har goghar morgh-ghull ogh oligvesh*’ but rather ‘is there more?’

And all that is one of the best snack/street food/ starter/nibble in the world.

Never on puff pastry, whatever Google tries to tell you. Never with tomatoes, and last but foremost of all, without cheese.

Pizza or bread dough topped with onions and garnished with anchovies and olives – that’s what pissaladière should be. Which incidentally is known in my circles as ‘piss-in-the-salad’.

provencal pizza with onions and anchovies cuisinefiend.com

The dough

The dough is an ordinary pizza dough. For those who now say, ‘my recipe is better!’, full respect: you know what you’re doing and I can leave you to it.

Those though who go: ‘you’re kidding me? make pizza dough?? my pizza comes from a delivery guy!’, you have two options. Either order your usual and scrape off all the toppings, or give it a try. You might be surprised how easy and how good it will be.

You can mix the dough the night before and keep it in the fridge overnight, so you have time to recover after the experience. Either way, on the day of pissaladière, the key thing is cooking the onions.

onions cuisinefiend.com

The onions

They need to end up jammy soft and smooth but not coloured. Cook them covered – that way you also save the house from excessive onioniness for days to come – only lifting the lid at the end to let the mixture thicken.

Add the anchovies and thyme just before so the thyme fragrance counters the onions. I love them, but I have to say they do linger in the house.

cooking onions cuisinefiend.com

The assembly

I don’t think the Niçardians would approve, but the easiest way to handle the dough and top it is to roll it out to fit a large baking tray.

Then spread the onions over the dough generously and decorate with olives and thin slices of anchovies.

Baking takes less than half an hour and there we have it: pissaladière, ready to cut into squares and enjoyed with a cool glass of Côtes de Provence rosé.

assembling pissaladiere cuisinefiend.com

More Provençal recipes

Tian is a Provençal dish and it's also the dish it is cooked in. Simple. And the dish, courgette and spinach tian is simple too: veg with cheese, to put it crudely.

Anchovy braised vegetable medley, Provençal style aubergine, courgette and mushrooms gently cooked in anchovy sauce with garlic and a touch of lemon.

Pompe à huile, sweet olive oil brioche traditionally served in Provence, South-East France, at Christmas. With orange flavour and a strange name (‘oil pump’), it’s one of 13 Provençal Christmas desserts.


*What? I’ve got mouth full of olives, of course.

pissaladiere cuisinefiend.com



pissaladière

Servings: 12 small squaresTime: 5 hours

INGREDIENTS

  • For the dough:
  • 200g strong white bread flour
  • a pinch of fresh or instant yeast (18 tsp)
  • 5g salt
  • 120g water, at room temperature
  • 1 tbsp olive oil plus more for kneading
  • For the topping:
  • 3 large sweet white or yellow onions
  • 5 tbsp olive oil
  • a large pinch of icing sugar
  • a few sprigs of thyme, leaves stripped
  • 80g tinned anchovy fillets in oil
  • a dozen small black olives (Cailletier niçoises if available)


METHOD

1. Make the dough the night before and keep it at room temperature; alternatively increase the amount of yeast to 8g fresh or 1 tsp instant and allow 2 hours to prove.

2. To make the dough, mix the yeast with the flour and salt, add the water and oil and knead by hand or with a mixer with a dough hook attachment, until the dough becomes smooth and elastic. Place it in an oiled bowl, cover with cling film and leave, appropriately, overnight or for 2 hours.

3. To make the topping, peel and slice the onions.

4. Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onions and the pinch of sugar. Cook covered, stirring occasionally on very low heat for 40-60 minutes; until the onions are completely soft but have not coloured.

5. By the end of cooking add 6 anchovy fillets and a little of the oil from the tin. Stir them in and leave the pan uncovered for the rest of the cooking time, for the liquid to evaporate.

6. Stir in the thyme leaves and leave to cool completely.

7. Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/gas 7.

8. Roll out the dough on a floured surface to line a baking tray 20 x 30cm.

9. Spread the onions evenly over the dough. Slice the remaining anchovy fillets lengthwise and top the tart in a regular or random pattern together with the olives.

10. Bake for 25-30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, sliced into squares.

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Hello! I'm Anna Gaze, the Cuisine Fiend. Welcome to my recipe collection.

I have lots of recipes for you to choose from: healthy or indulgent, easy or more challenging, quick or involved - but always tasty.


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