Buttered cabbage flavoured with caraway and marjoram, it practically cooks itself. This recipe is for hispi (sweetheart or pointed) cabbage but it works with other varieties just as well.
Cabbage names and varieties
Cabbage comes in various colours and sizes. The humble, ordinary white cabbage is often looked down on but that is the best variety to make fermented sauerkraut, wonderfully beneficial to our gut.
Red cabbage is more appreciated, probably thanks to the vibrant colour which mysteriously turns blue when it’s blanched, then crimson again when it’s seasoned with acid. That happens because of pigments called anthocyanins which react violently to alkali or acids: turning blue in the presence of the former, when cooking in tap water, and back to purple when squirted with lemon or vinegar.
Savoy cabbage is vibrant green and a little tougher than its white or red cousins. Therefore it’s best braised or roasted a little longer.
Kale or cavolo nero is dark, dark green and also crinkled, like Savoy. I have to say it’s not my favourite cabbage, but it has plenty of nutritional value.
Chinese cabbage aka Napa cabbage is the hero of kimchi, Korean fermented cabbage, as well as a multitude of stir fries. It cooks quickly, it is very tender and it’s as good in salads as it is cooked.
Brussels sprouts are miniature cabbages, in case you didn’t realise! They are the Marmite of the cabbage family but I think when prepared well, they are delicious.
And finally the spring, pointed, sweetheart or hispi cabbage, everyone’s favourite and the trendy family member. Its more delicate taste makes it versatile, easy to prepare by grilling, using in salads or making a gorgeous, easy side dish of buttered cabbage, demonstrated here.
How to prepare the cabbage
Shredding the cabbage finely is quite important so it cooks quickly and evenly. You can use a food processor or a mandolin but sweetheart cabbage is quite loosely packed so it won’t respond well to either appliance. Hone your knife skills and get a chopping board!
Trim and discard outer leaves only if they are blemished or really tough and fibrous: I like to see the different hues of green on my plate, and it’s not wasteful.
Cut the cabbage head into quarters, and either start shredding from the pointy end then discard the core when you get to it, or cut out the core beforehand before chopping.
Season the cabbage
I advise tossing the cabbage in a bowl with the herbs and salt. It cooks with minimal stirring so we want to make sure it’s seasoned throughout.
You can skip grinding the caraway and marjoram in pestle and mortar but not many people love biting into a caraway seed, so it’s up to you.
Hands-off cooking
This way is so good because all you do is pack the cabbage into a saucepan, push chunks of butter into it and cover with the lid. After about half an hour over medium heat you’ll lift the lid to see it perfectly cooked. A generous squeeze of lemon to taste and it’s done.
The heat should be adjusted so there is a little cooking ‘noise’ from the pan but no burning smells – which is the only thing to look out for.
The cooking time depends on the cabbage: if it’s new season, loosely packed, it will take perhaps twenty minutes. A tougher, older head might take forty minutes. The former will be tastier but it will also considerably shrink in volume. The latter means more food – but a little more al dente.
More cabbage recipes
Another way to cook cabbage: crispy and caramelised. Brown cabbage Swedish style is fried then baked. This method turns the vegetable into a wonderfully unusual side dish.
Grilled hispi cabbage with almond flakes, deliciously charred quarters cooked in a frying pan or griddle can be as tender or crunchy as you like it. The secret is the optional ingredient added at the end of cooking.
Creamy Savoy cabbage is quick, easy and deliciously nutritious, made with crème fraiche for a lighter flavour. Seasoned with caraway and fresh dill, it’s a fabulous side dish, making Savoy cabbage equally attractive to trendy hispi.
More easy side vegetable recipes
Blistered green beans or sugar snap peas charred under the grill and flavoured with crispy chilli oil, that’s a quick and easy version of Sichuan dry fried beans. Crisp chilli oil is truly a magic condiment, check out how else you can use it.
Fried sliced mushrooms, cooked in butter and a little oil, perfect for breakfast or as a side to a steak. Cook them for 10-15 minutes until caramelised and crisp.
Sesame roasted broccoli with a hint of sweetness from maple syrup, soused in olive and sesame oil, ready in 20 minutes. Broccoli like you’ve never tasted before!